Bonarda – Controversial And Hard To Find
June 22nd, 2009
Until recently it was the most widely planted grape in Argentina (Malbec has overtaken it) but Bonarda has been difficult to find.
I was therefore pleasantly surprised to find a bottle of Trivento 2005 Reserve Bonarda being promoted at my local New World. Bonarda is one of those grape varieties which attracts controversy. Prior to DNA analysis becoming mainstream there was huge dispute over where Argentinian Bonarda had come from. Did it originate near Turin where the Bonarda Piemontese is grown or is it from elsewhere? Yet, if it was from Turin, why did the wine taste so different when grown in Argentina? Bonarda Piemontese is light and fruity while Argentinian Bonarda can actually be quite substantive. We now know it is from elsewhere – probably from Savoy originally – where it is known as Corbeau or Douce Noir. It may have travelled to Argentina via California where it is known as Charbono.
Over the years I have found Bonarda a great mid-week wine, a great accompaniment to a steak or pasta dish. These are not highly complex wines, but they are not mono-dimensional either. And, they are not excessively alcoholic – an important consideration when there is work the next day. And they are very affordable – good examples are available here for well under $20. The Trivento 2005 was about $16 and had a great plum and cherry fruit character with chocolate and vanilla flavours also. The nose was plum with hints of chocolate soufflé. I enjoyed it very much.
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