The last wine region I visited on my recent trip to France was the beautiful landscape of Champagne. I must admit the wine style this region is best known for is not my absolute favourite. And I am not a real enthusiast for the elitist imaging of many of the best-known Champagne houses. Being looked down upon by a receptionist at Veuve Clicquot (owner of NZ’s Cloudy Bay and Australia’s Cape Mentelle where the reception cannot be warmer) because we have not made an appointment – when there was no one with appointments – does not cut the mustard.

We visited both Reims and Epernay and the vineyards in between. The cathedral in Reims is one of my favourites in Europe. No wonder the French Kings liked going there for their coronations. Both towns report an early start to the grape growing season. The region has traditionally been marginal for viticulture. But in recent years temperatures have been favourable, so that rather than frost and acid levels, the new challenge has become excessive cropping. This didn’t matter much when Bernie Madoff was delivering you such good returns you could keep the bubbles flowing like water. But it may be the consumer has just become somewhat more discerning.

At its best vintage Champagne is very hard to beat. Non-vintage Champagne is a different matter. I tried quite a few labels while in the region. Are they worth the premium over a good Aust or NZ imitation? Not that I could see. Fortunately there have been some pretty good bargains here recently. At Christmas it was possible to buy non-vintage Champagne for not much more than the best the new world has to offer. In recent weeks the good deals seem to have become more scarce, but I expect they will return. Thanks to the high Euro sales have collapsed in the US and UK. There is plenty of inventory around.

Tip – Where to eat – Brasserie Flo in the centre of Reims (96, place Drouet d’Erlon). This is part of the Brasserie Flo chain which can be a bit variable, but the Reims restaurant is pushing a Michelin star (the Guide Rouge gives it two knives and forks) but is very good value for a restaurant with this rating.

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