Wine Commentary: The Wines Of Mexico – Getting Better and Better
November 11th, 2009
You won’t find many bottles on sale in NZ but you might be lucky enough to sample some Mexican wine, either in Mexico or North America.
Mexican wine was heavily protected up until Mexico joined the WTO in 1986. Being insulated against international competition meant Mexico’s wine makers didn’t have to think as much as they should about quality and innovation. The wine made up until 1986 reflected this. The Mexican wine industry went through a period of adjustment to a more open market with something like 90% of producers going out of business. But those remaining and those who started up have responded well and the quality of Mexican wines has improved enormously.
I first tasted Mexican wine at an APEC wine competition in the mid 1990s. The wine which really impressed me was a Chardonnay which ended up winning the white wine category of the event. Aside from Chardonnay, I have enjoyed Mexican Cabernet/ Merlots (sometimes with Cabernet Franc), Syrah and Nebbiolo. Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Viognier are made also.
Some good labels to look out for are Monte Xanic (I enjoyed their 2006 Chardonnay) and Santo Tomas (the Sirocco 2004 Syrah should make Hawkes Bay producers sit up and take notice). Those wanting to try a Bordeaux style from Mexico will enjoy the Chateau Camou Gran Vino Tinto 2004. This is again a very intense wine with cassis and dark red berry flavours. It was great with a steak. While the wines are good and getting better, demand right now seems to be exceeding supply. Prices reflect this.
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